Sunday, September 14, 2008

Until next time...

September 14

In case you didn't figure out, I am back from the Arctic and in good ol' High Prairie. Not much to report from down here. I help out on the farm and get free room and board! I did the Terry Fox Run today- I don't think I was quite ready for that 8km. I am going to hurt tomorrow.

I will restart regular posts on a new blog when I move to Australia in November. You can read them at http://nelsondownsouth.blogspot.com, with the clever alliterative title of "Dispatches from Down Under". I am sure the first post will have something to do with sunburns. I have a feeling that my albino-like skin will need some adjustment to the glare of the southern sun.

-A.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Ow, my head.

Why oh why did I have so many jaggerbombs? I should have stuck to beer. I blame Heather.

-A.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Out of the wilderness

August 22

The plane to civilization arrives in about 4 hours to whisk me back to the land of cars and taxes. I am absolutely ecstatic, but a little sad too. The tundra and I have bonded thoroughly over the last six and a half weeks and have become good friends. Though we will not see each other for a while, I think I will keep in touch. Being out here as really cleared out my brain of a lot of crap and I feel like I am fresh for the world. It's hard to focus on nagging little things that would normally bother you back in the world when you are living in such a vast, beautiful place.

Next on my list is a night at the pub tonight- I take no responsibility for my condition tomorrow morning. On Sunday I am off to the farm with my crew partner Heather, to show her around the bustling mecca of High Prairie. A week or so off, and then I will be sent to some other god-forsaken outpost, which will have to be pretty awesome indeed to beat Zip Camp. I'll let you know when I know.

-A.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Knowledge is power

August 20
T-1 day left in the field!

Things I have learned while at Zip Camp:

1. Blackflies are minions of the Devil.

2. A helicopter is a great way to beat traffic.

3. Be nice to the cook or things become unpleasant.

4. Bring winter clothes. Just because it's summer, it doesn't mean it's going to be warm.

5. Never trust map topography. A little creek may, in fact, turn out to be a deep river.

6. Target areas are generally covered in swamp.

7. "Night" is a relative term when it doesn't actually get dark.

8. Showering is optional.

9. You will never get as much reading done as you think you will.

10. One can never have enough socks or work gloves or movies on their computer.

11. Caribou are not as dumb as they look, just very curious.

12. Always ALWAYS bring toilet paper into the field (I will not name names, but you know who you are!)

-A.




Don't I look happy? I believe this was taken after the rain had finally made it through all 3 layers of clothing I was wearing below my rain gear.


My partner in crime, Heather on her birthday (22 years young)


Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Layering is the key

August 19
T-2 days left in the field

I know that you guys are probably sick of me talking about the weather, but this, you're going to want to hear. Note the date above this paragraph, now imagine snow. Yeah. Snow. In August.

I woke up this morning at about 5am because the walls of the tent were being blown around so much that it actually bumped my head. There was a raging gale of a storm outside, complete with icy rain and frigid north winds. On the bright side we didn't have to go out in the field right away, and thank god for that because just after breakfast it started snowing for about 10 minutes. The temperature was sitting at a cozy 3 degrees Celsius, which I am sure was below zero with the wind chill. We got out in the field by about 11, after the rain had blown off, but the winds were still pretty nasty and it didn't warm up very much. My wardrobe consisted of longjohns, work pants, rain pants, tank top, t-shirt, long shirt, puffy vest, fleece coat, rain coat, two pairs of socks, two pairs of gloves, a balaclava, and toque... and I was just warm enough to function. I definitely did not pack winter gear for this job, since it's, you know, AUGUST! I just have to keep saying my warming mantra: "Auuuuu-sTRAlia, Auuuuu-sTRAlia, Auuuuu-sTRAlia".

It was also Heather's birthday today- 22 and counting. Due to the lack of retail outlets in the vicinity, I made her one of my patented mix cds, lovingly wrapped with flagging tape, along with a guarantee of a free drink when we get to the Black Knight Pub on Friday. Mmmm beer. I kept threatening to throw her in the lake all day, but she one-upped me and jumped in herself for a (VERY) brief birthday swim. Crazy girl! I would have gone but I had just had a deliciously hot shower that had warmed my cold bones and had no intention of getting chilled again. I do plan to go for one last tundra dip on the morning of my departure (assuming the damn thing isn't frozen over by then).

Frigidly yours,

-A.


Monday, August 18, 2008

Damp.

August 18
T-3 days left in the field

It started raining at about noon today. It didn't stop until the helicopter picked us up at 3:50. It may not seem like a long time to be outside, but with the wind and the wet, my fingers were losing feeling by 2. Of course it didn't help that my gloves are so worn out that three fingers have very large holes in them. I also managed to smash my fist into a very sharp rock and break skin after slipping on a rock while hammering an outcrop. All in all, not quite as good of a day as yesterday.

The summer is definitely coming to an end up here in the tundra- all of the shrubs and plants are a tired green with the occasional burst of red or yellow and all the berries are starting to become overripe (except those stubborn cranberries). I am going to miss my daily blueberry fix.

-A.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Esker Runner, Lake Jumper

August 17
T-4 days left in the field.

I didn't exactly go out into the field yesterday, due to a tailbone injury and a very ungraceful fall down the stairs to the cookhouse on the way to the helicopter. I spent the whole day on my back to make sure nothing got strained, just to be safe. I think my back hurt more from laying on my crappy bed all day than from the initial injury.

A plane was supposed to show up yesterday afternoon carrying the drillers, but apparently they didn't show up on time so the plane was 5 hours late. This was not so good for Carolyn, who intended to leave on the flight to catch her 7am plane back to Halifax for school. It showed up eventually, and now camp is a much more crowded and potentially interesting place. The drillers kind of remind me of people in High Prairie- a little less academic and a little more blue-collar- kind of refreshing to be honest.

Sometimes I feel a little out of my element with all the PhD and MSc folks kicking around, though they do like my farm stories. It's funny that I come across as having a rather mysterious background, just being a farm girl. The majority of folks out here are from Vancouver or somewhere urban in BC, since that is where the company Aurora is contracted to is based out of. I tell them about rodeos and cutting hay and they all think it's really exotic or something. Who knew I was exotic?

Today I went for a run to try and stretch out my back, along an esker that runs north of camp. For those who don't know, an esker is a long snaking hill that is created as gravel and sediment are deposited by a retreating glacier. As the ice melts this trail of rocks and dirt is left behind that can stretch for many kilometers. It is probably the least trecherous terrain on the tundra, if one wants to get somewhere quickly. The lowlands are covered in humocky bumps from frost boils and frost heave and knee-high shrubs called dwarf birch, not to mention swamps and lakes.

It was really fun running on the esker- it felt like an old abandoned road or something, and I was constantly dodging rocks and having to cross streams and running uphill in gravel. True cross-country running to say the least- it was a very arctic experience. After the run a bunch of us (in other words, the more crazy folks in camp), jumped in the lake, despite the 12 degree temperature and mid-level wind. Shortest swim of my life! It was a good day.

-A.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Shovel and Bucket Geology

August 14

There was a bit of a shake-up today, in terms of crews. Heather spent today with Fred, from the GGL crew and I spent the day with John (whom I refer to as the Professor in my head). They did prospecting, but I got to try out till sampling, which basically involves walking to a pre-chosen waypoint and digging out 2 large buckets of dirt, describing it, and then putting it in a big sack to be picked up later by helicopter. I was the shovel (wo)man.

Lots of walking then shoveling then walking again. The weight of the samples ranged from 26 t0 35kg (57-77lbs) depending on water content, so lifting those sacks was quite the workout on top of all the shoveling. The weather cleared up finally and I don't have to walk around with five layers on, but I don't trust it anymore- I have this sneaking suspicioun that it will snow before I leave (8 days to go!), but we'll see. Nothing much else to report, but I'll keep you posted.

-A.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Summer?

August 13

After a brief period of raging heat, the summer has ended and moved right on into late autumn. I practically had to peel the icicles off my nose this morning as I very hurriedly did the quick-change from sleeping bag to massive layers of clothing.

According to nearby meteorological data, it got very close to freezing, and then didn't get much past 12 degrees today with a gale force wind to boot. My work gloves with the fingertips worn out were not nearly as warm as I had hoped and as a result, the tundra was a very unpleasant place to be. My crew partner Heather was very stoic in her tolerance of my whining today and I give her big props for putting up with me.

I think I am finally starting to get a bit burned out- 8 days in the field left, plus one for travel back to civilization... not that I'm counting. I developed a little mantra that I said to my self all day to help me ignore the cold: "Auuuuu-sTRAlia, Auuuuu-sTRAlia, Auuuuu-sTRAlia". It worked wonderfully. I am much better at dealing with being too hot than too cold. I HATE cold (I realize the irony of saying this from the arctic tundra). Maybe it's just that I hate cold in freaking August. My mom said it's going to be 30 degrees in High Prairie this week. Alas! On the bright side I have stopped craving cold beer... now all I want is a hot toddy and a heating pad.

I think I may ceremonially burn my longjohns before leaving Canada.

-A.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Too lazy to write so it's picture time!


Reeling 'er in




Only about a pound less than my nephew when he was born, though much less cute.



... he wasn't very good eating, but at least I have bragging rights.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Luck be a lady

August 10

I have no idea what stars have aligned today or whether I have some banked karma or something, because it has been an incredible day. I started off with a delicious breakfast of blueberry pancakes courtesy of our wonderful cook Megan, maybe that was it?

Anyway, while out in the field I found a huge mineralization zone (very good) and the weather was excellent- hot and breezy. I got back to camp at lunch and then it was off in the helicopter for our little fishing excursion, just me Heather and Carolyn. We went up to the Coppermine river about 20km north of camp where there are a great set of rapids and fished in front of the outwash. I caught a 7lb, 23 inch trout, and in the process broke my fishing rod. With the broken fishing rod I got two more fish, both of which broke away as I got them near shore, but I still consider it a feat to have hooked anything with a 3 ft rod with only one eyelet left. Five of diamonds spoon and 10lb line. We filleted it in the field and the cook kindly fried it up for us for supper.

After the fish feast pretty much the entire camp went for a swim, which is quite rare. Usually it's just us few crazies who dare brave the frigid depths. After the swim, I checked my email, and the working holiday visa that I applied for yesterday was already approved! I thought that I would have to show them a bank statement to prove my financial status, but apparently they only ask for that sometimes. My theory is that because I have an in-demand degree, that they may have fast-tracked me. Can you believe that? I don't think I have ever been fast tracked in my life. It feels good. November 1, it's off to the land down under!

-A.

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Hot hot hot

August 9

I think today it finally felt like summer. I know that it is already August, so that is kind of sad, really. It was great because the bugs were tolerable enough that I shed my layers and strutted the tundra in my tank-top! And on top of that, there were even trees! I was about 30km south of camp and right near the edge of the tree line. I walked along a lake shore which was strewn with some very determined black spruce that were actually taller than me. Most of the trees I encounter are lucky to break 5 feet. I didn't realize until then how much I had missed the smell of trees. The tundra just kind of smells like moss and dirt, but mostly dirt. Walking along the lake in the heat, with unusually large trees and even a few large cliffs in the background, I almost felt like I was in Kananaskis country. Probably one of my best days so far, even if I didn't find any rocks other than basalt and granite.

The countdown has begun, less than two weeks to go up here. In some ways it feels like it went very fast but sometimes I also feel like I have been here for years. I am really looking forward to sleeping in a bed that does not consist of plywood, a piece of foam and a sleeping bag. Woooh blankets!

Nothing much else to report today, but tomorrow we might go heli-fishing, so I will let you know how that goes.

-A.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

... And now for something completely different!

August 7, Part 2

This is the caribou I mentioned earlier who had a strange fondness for Johnny Cash tunes.


This little fella circled around us a couple times this morning as we were getting our maps out. In this shot he is only about 10m away.


Heather and I taking a quick (and VERY COLD) dip in the lake beside Zip Camp


Queen of the Tundra! Don't laugh at my hat.

Heather got bored waiting for the helicopter, so decided the chopper flag would make an excellent cape.


Yeah, those black dots are all blackflies. Nasty, eh?


This is from a couple weeks ago, note that the water is above the bottom of my bag. Luckily I had removed my pants prior to entering the frigid liquid. Of course the camera does not capture the final moments of my crossing, at which point I sunk to upper chest level just before reaching the other shore.

-A.

All about the Bordens

August 7

For those of you who don't make prime ministerial trivia a priority in your life, the Borden I am referring to is Sir Robert Borden, Prime Minister of Canada during WWI, though I can't remember the specific years of office. He is also featured on our $100 bill, which is why I mention him.

I pay particular attention to my paystubs out here, as it is one of few events I can look forward to with some regularity. It is also nice to watch the accumulation- my accommodations and food are covered out here and there is no way to spend my money so it all just sits in my bank account, happily hibernating until I return to civilization. Anyway, my last cheque, according to my calculations, was about 20% short. I emailed the powers that be about this little oversite and it turns out that I was right! This means the next cheque will be extra big (hello new tires for the Jeep!).

Sometimes I forget that I actually get a decent amount of money to do this stuff. Back in university, our field schools would be just as gruelling, (though not as long!) and we would have to PAY to be there. This reversal of fortunes is taking some getting used to. I have been acruing debt since I turned 18- it's nice to be headed in the other direction for once.

Monday, August 4, 2008

Walk the Line

August 4

Like the Germans' fascination with the great David Hasselhoff, I have found another group of fans that transcend borders, and even species in their dedication to their idol. I speak, of course of the Caribou's love of Johnny Cash. I have confirmed this through careful field study today- there I was walking along an outcrop, singing along to "Jackson" by Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash, and when I stopped and looked up, there was a very large male Caribou not 15m away. Now, the tundra is a very quiet place; considering the volume at which I was singing (I know, not a pretty picture), he should have been able to hear me coming for at least 10 minutes before I got that close. My only explanation is that he must have liked what he heard (the music, not me!). Who knew that caribou had such good taste?

-A.

PS: I tried to upload a photo of the curious fellow but the internet is rather shoddy today. Alas!

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Bug-free bliss

August 3

It seems as if the tundra has suddenly come alive in the last two weeks. The caribou herds have started moving through the area; this means that the wolves have also been poking around. Yesterday we saw a pack of 8 white wolves sauntering along about 250m away. Later in the day we came across a very nervous-looking caribou with a huge set of antlers- I think the wolves were stalking him. Very cool!

This morning was not quite as cool, since I managed to sink to my knees in mud and started the day with a contentious argument about my bedtime with someone who really had no business commenting on it. What does it matter to anyone else whether I go to sleep at 10 pm or 11 pm? I still get up and go to work in the morning- if I am grumpy, I have learned to keep it to myself and I am bright-eyed and bushy-tailed by the time I get to the meeting at 7:30. Arrgh! I like vast majority of the people I am working with, but boy will it be nice to see some new faces when I get back.

When I got back to camp this afternoon I had a nice little lay-down in the sun... it is the first day that it has been warm, calm, and un-buggy. It's a tundra miracle! This, followed by a nap and an icy dip in the lake cured me of my cantankerous mood (Sunday is only a half-day in the field and I am mostly caught up on my mapping so had nothing pressing to do). I know I had other things to write about today but absolutely can't remember what they were, so it must not have been too important.

-A.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Lazy days

August 1

It seems like the last week since I got back from my wax removal in Yellowknife has been uncommonly slack. Other than the spa night, each crew got a full day in camp to catch up on their mapping and sample data entry. And the day before that we ended up finishing our traverse at around 1pm and because the radio antenna was being moved, we couldn't reach camp for a pick up. This meant that Heather and I spent the afternoon on a gravelly beach beside a lake napping and gossiping- not exactly roughing it in the tundra, eh? The same thing happened today, but luckily we were able to reach camp and got back around noon and had our maps plotted by late afternoon. Since we are temporarily without a camp cook, we volunteered to help with supper (frozen pizza and salad, so not exactly labour-intensive). Tomorrow will be the only full day until Sunday, which is always a half day. Total slackness! I think I if I ever went back to a 5 day a week job, 9 to 5, I would feel like quite the lazy bugger, indeed. Weekends? Who needs 'em!

In other news, I have started poking around for jobs in Australia. I saw one that offered 90k per year plus an 8k signing bonus. Yikes! Oz is looking mighty tempting after I calculated my student loan costs tonight. For the price of my degree I could have gotten a fully loaded 4x4 Toyota Tundra, plus a full tank of gas. A mighty expensive piece of paper if I do say so myself. Hopefully the work visa won't be too complicated to figure out- I am hoping to get a job where the employer will sponsor me for a temporary work visa so I don't have to jump through all the hoops on my own.

I will miss the caribou when I go though. A whole herd showed up about 200m from camp and a bunch of us went and checked it out. Those fellas aren't very scared of anything. A little calf came within 50m of me without blinking an eye.

I know I said I would load some pictures tonight but I can't find the relevant cable so I promise I will do so as soon as technically possible. Hope everyone enjoys their August long weekend while I slave away on the tundra :P. Have a beer for me!

-A.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Pampered

Last night was spa night here at camp. Since (and this is very rare) the ladies outnumbered the fellas, we decided that we would have an evening of pampering after all the harrowing trials of the field. There were foot baths and face masks and hair treatments and massages and haircuts. I thought it was going to be kind of silly, but it ended up being really fun. A woman from the Arctic Star camp about 35km away even flew in for a sleepover- the poor girl is the only female in her camp. I will try and load some pictures tomorrow.

Field work was rather smooth today, other than the persistent smoke. Forest fire smoke from Saskatchewan drifts up here and just sits, since there is no topography to block it along the way. Very hard on the lungs after 8 hours.

I promise to write more fun things tomorrow, but I am beat and want to go to bed early for once. Cheers.

-A.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Trees and cars and roads, oh my!

July 27

It sure has been a busy couple of days. For about a week or so my ear has been blocked of because I was blessed with excess wax production (gross, I know, but integral to the story). Because of this, I occasionally have to go to the clinic and get my ears flushed with saline. Usually a blockage will last only a day or two, but since I was in camp, I couldn't do anything about it. As time went on, it starting hurting quite a bit and eventually the guy in charge of first aid in camp decided that I should head out on the plane coming in on Friday to get things looked at because the next plane wasn't for 5 days at which point it could be infected and such. Infection that close to your brain is apparently a serious thing, so I took is advice and headed back to the big city (aka Yellowknife) on Friday night. It was very strange to see trees and cars again. I felt like the old guy who got let out of prison in the movie Shawshank Redemption (Morgan Freeman and Tim Robbins star- if you haven't seen it, its very good). He spent his life in prison and then when he got out on parole as an old man, the modern world was overwhelming to him. Okay I guess it wasn't quite that bad, but I sure did enjoy walking around outside without a bug net. Utter bliss!

Anyway, I show up at Emergency at 8am Saturday and only have to wait about 45 minutes, which I believe is a new record... the nurse spent another 30 minutes flushing my ears and (just a warning, because this part is gross) washed out a plug of wax from each ear the size of a jellybean... and a blackfly. Apparently my other ear was on the verge of being blocked off so it's a good thing I got there when I did. Then another 45 minutes to get the doctor to check me (about 30 seconds of inspection and a thumbs up- sure glad I waited for him). I spent the rest of the day doing errands around town- getting some Tim Hortons, buying overalls, longjohns and work gloves, going to a movie, etc. By the way, "The Dark Knight" absolutely blew my mind- freaking awesome!!!! Okay back to my story. I get back to the crewhouse after picking up some groceries because the camp didn't know when they would be able to get me back, and there is a message for me saying my flight leaves at 7:30. I was rather surprised, but got all my gear packed up again and headed back to the float plane base and I was back in camp by 9:30 and out in the field again this morning. I must be important now, since I have planes chartered just for me- all hoity-toity and such. It was a fun little break- I managed to have a beer (VERY delicious) and by some much needed new field gear, and I didn't even miss a day of pay since I get paid for travel days. The icing on the cake was that Sundays are half days, so I only worked until noon and then did some mapping after lunch AND I saw some caribou! We saw a herd from the helicopter today and a few of the strays who wandered to within about 500m of camp tonight. Did I mention I love my job?

-A.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

It's like fricking National Geographic around here

Yesterday I saw a wolf! It was chasing a caribou, but I couldn't see the caribou because I was busy trying to get out my video camera. I got the wolf on film at 20x zoom, so it's like tv!... if tv was shot using a mini dv camcorder with no tripod... anyway, it was the coolest thing I have seen yet out here. Farley Mowat would be proud. Also eventful was our helicopter trip back to camp. We were at the far north end of the claim property, which is about 45km from home, so it take about 30 minutes to get back. About 15 minutes into the flight we start coming in on this big thunderhead, which is perched directly on top of Zip Camp. All of a sudden a huge fork of lightning strikes about 4 or 5 km away from us, which is not very far when you are in a helicopter and there are no trees to attract the lightning. Then it starts raining like mad and the pilot is thinking that maybe we should land until it blows over, but then decides that he will go around the storm. Let me tell you that was a bit of a bumpy ride- I've been told I shouldn't sit in the front seat anymore because I am bad luck. Alas!

Today wasn't quite as exciting biologically or meteorologically, but very exciting geologically. I was paired up with Brenda and Paul instead of my usual partner Heather. Paul kind of heads the Aurora crew out here as he is the senior geologist and Brenda is a geologist and also his wife. Anyway, they were going to go check out some conductor highs (geophysics talk meaning good rocks to look at) and sent me off by myself to the west of their traverse. I ended up being by myself most of the day and found this awesome arsenopyrite zone in some volcanic rock. In itself aresnopyrite is kind of useless unless you need arsenic, but it is a very good indicator that gold is nearby, and gold is very not useless. If they build a mine there I'm going to get them to name it after my nephew Grady. Aside from that zone, I just kept finding great stuff all day. I would break open a rock and there would be shiny stuff inside- like a geology pinata! It's days like yesterday and today that make me remember what a completely amazing job I have.

I am sure you are tired of reading by now, so I will leave you for today. Happy trails.

-A.

Monday, July 21, 2008

You could (not) make me a morning person

July 21

I am starting to get into the groove up here. Working for six weeks straight seems much less daunting when you are 2 weeks in. If I know my fractions right, that is practically a whole third!

The only thing I haven't settled into is the mornings. No matter how much I like a person, I still have no desire to talk or be friendly to them within an hour after getting out of bed. My mom can attest to that. Breakfast starts at 6:30- my tactic is to wait until about 10 minutes to 7, at which point most folks are out of the kitchen and I can eat quickly and in silence without having to make small talk. I hate morning small talk. This doesn't leave a whole lot of time for morning hygiene, but it's a price I'm willing to pay. The morning crew meeting is at 7:15 and by then I have a coffee in my hand and just have to listen as Paul goes over the geology of the area we are going to prospect that day. After that its onto the helicopter and out into the field, at which point I am becoming a normal human being.

When I get back to Yellowknife I am going to sleep in until 10:30, then roll out of bed and have just enough time to make it to Tim Hortons for a bacon breakfast sandwich and a large double-double before they stop serving breakfast at 11. Mmmmmm.

-A.

PS: I also miss bacon. The cook says that you shouldn't eat it when you have to go out into the field because it takes your body longer to digest and steals energy. I call bullshit- I want bacon!

PPS: The title isn't really supposed to make sense unless you already know what I am talking about. Inside joke for Steven Bowers fans.

Friday, July 18, 2008

River woes and wet toes

July 18

Today has been a complete gong show. Everyone was pretty pumped this morning because it was both hot and windy, which is the optimal combination because you don't have to wear 7 layers of clothes and the bugs get blown away.

Once we were dropped off at the site, the crew who was there yesterday (Pattie and Carolyn) showed us a few of the samples they had discovered so we knew what to look for. Then Heather and I headed off to the northwest to look for deposits. Unfortunately, a rather significant river blocked our path. Our options were to try and find a place to ford it, skip the area and work with the other crew, or walk around the very large lake to the west. Two attempts to cross the river by Heather showed that the water was more than waist deep. We went upstream a bit and found a narrow, and what looked like a shallower spot. I took off my boots, socks, and pants and shoved them into my pack. It was going rather well until I got within a step or two of the other side, at which point I sank to chest depth. In the end it wasn't too bad- the outside of our packs were wet, but surprisingly water resistant within, and it was windy enough that our shirts dried quickly. Pants, boots and socks remained pleasantly dry until about an hour later when we crossed a swampy region that soaked me almost to my knees. Who knew the tundra was so goddamn damp?

At various times throughout the day we both managed to fall on our faces in spectacular fashion, and keep our boots wet in a couple more swamps. For all this, we only ended up with one or two samples for the day. Alas! I suppose it was character building or something. When we got back to camp, a bunch of us went for a quick dip off the float plane dock. I had convinced Carolyn, Heather and the GGL boss Katie to come out yesterday, so a few other folks decided to give it a try. It's as cold as any mountain lake I've been in, maybe colder, but boy is it refreshing! I would kill a man right now for a cold beer and a long bath, so I have to improvise to prevent the homicidal tendencies from surfacing.

-A.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Glorious sunshine and a rock bear

July 15

For the first time since we have been in the field, it was both warm and sunny. Of course this also meant that the fly swarm was out in full force, but it was totally worth it. I broke so many rocks today, I felt like I was a quarry worker. I think my right arm is going to be all muscled by the end of this shindig... like Popeye!

Yesterday was mildly more eventful, as Heather and I had to ford a stream. The helicopter dropped us off on this esker because the surrounding area was quite swampy. An esker is kind of like a little highway of gravel left behind by melting glaciers, so it was quite handy to travel along. Unfortunately, at one point the stream passed directly in front of us so we had to either find a (long) way around or cross. Them arctic waters are mighty cold. Later I found this really strange boulder on top of three very small rocks (relatively speaking). It almost looked like a bear inukshuk. It was either that or the glaciers left a very strange remnant on their journey back north. The picture below shows the boulder and small rocks but not the medium sized rock on top which I assumed was supposed to be the bear's head. Heather thinks I am a little to imaginative and that it is probably just natural, but you never know!

-A.


The Inukshuk Bear

Fording the river (too deep for my boots).


Home sweet home (aka Zip Camp). I am in the second orange dome to the left.


Tundra! And my backpack full of rocks.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Who needs public transit when you have a helicopter?

July 13

I think I am going to love Sundays. On God's day we only spend half the day in the field and in the afternoon we sit in the core shed and talk about what we have found during the week and discuss safety issues. The geo talk is fun but even better is the chips and hot chocolate. Both rather scarce while out on the tundra, to be sure. I have never drank so much hot chocolate in July in my life, but it sure does warm up your core. Since this is a dry camp, whiskey is out of the question for that purpose, alas!

I am getting used to the constant helicopter excursions, even if the rear rotor still scares the bejeezus out of me. It spins so fast that you can't see it and I sometimes have these nightmare visions where I trip on my pack or something and tragically fall into the kill zone. Other than that, the chopper is fun! We are using a Hughes 500 from Great Slave Helicopters. It's much bulkier than the Bell 206 I was in in the Mackenzie mountains. It brings to mind a bumblebee in the fall- all bulbous and slow to get off the ground. Our pilot, Bob is a pretty quiet fellow- when he has some time between pick-ups he'll fly to a lake and go fishing. I love that my commute to work invovles flying. AND that I don't have to pick up the gas bill! I'm guessing that helicopters aren't so great with the fuel efficiency.

-A.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Hiking the Tundra

July 11

Today was the first day I felt like I earned my pay at Aurora. The weather was windy and chilly so I could actually get some work done. Yesterday the blackflies were so bad that I couldn't even eat lunch. The instant I unzipped the netting of my bug jacket off my face, I would literally be breathing in flies. They would also get in my ears and in the space between my glasses and my face. The maintenance guy at camp says he has worked in the north for forty years and yesterday was the first time in his life that he wore a bugnet- and this was in camp where it was dry and very unswampy. I have windburn like crazy, but the wind in combo with the occasional light shower made ideal bug-free conditions and it was GLORIOUS! I managed to avoid eating even one bug in the process of consuming my sandwich, which I consider quite a feat.

Anyway, back to today. Since the Aurora crew is still getting used to the area, we split our zone into three traverses, 2 people for each. My partner Heather and I ended up with the very flat, unrocky zone, so there was much hiking and little sampling. It was still pretty great though- we did find a few sulphide-rich areas to take a look at and found some great crystallization. At one point we split up so Heather could go check out a glacial feature and I could look at a frost heave on the other side of a lake. En route I saw a flash of white skim by me about 100m away. At first I thought it was a fox, but it was way too big, and foxes are brown this time of year anyway. I made a lot of yelling noises and sang Folsum Prison Blues at the top of my lungs for the next half hour (I couldn't think of the lyrics to anything else in my frightened state). Luckily it moved off and I didn't see it again.

The internet has been down since we got here which is why I couldn't post until today. After only two full days out here, it's surprising how isolated you can feel. It's recommended that we don't go outside the bear fence alone and most everyone is so beat at the end of the day that a stroll around the claim site seems rather unpalatable anyway so- not that there is much to see if you did go for a walk. When you are in the helicopter you can really get a feel for how completely in the middle of nowhere the place is. Still having way more fun than I did in an office in downtown Calgary, though. Despite the bug bites.

-A.

PS: Feel free to leave a comment if you like. It would be nice to here from the outside world :)

Blackflies Unite

July 9

If you think that 4:30 sounds like an ungodly time to get up for work, then you are absolutely right. The charter left at 6:00 am and we got to Zip camp by 7:30. I would say bright and early, but it's always bright out here, regardless if it's early.

The strangest thing to get used to is that there are no TREES! The tallest plant in a 10 km radius is about a foot high. The greatest part of the lack of vegetation is, of course, that there are more rocks to see- and lichen. Soooo much lichen. The only downfall of being in the tundra is the blackflies. You here about their legendary numbers but nothing really prepares you for their masses. I made the mistake of wearing capri pants this morning and 10 minutes into the helicopter safety briefing my legs looked like a checker board-black spots were flies in the process of biting and red spots where they had already been. Apparently they are attracted to dark colours, which meant that my navy blue fleece coat had literally HUNDREDS of bugs crawling on it. Back in Yellowknife I hmm'ed and hawwed about whether to get a bug jacket and finally decided to splurge for the $40 investment. Best money I ever spent, though the face net can get claustrophobic if you aren't wearing a brimmed hat underneath.

The camp itself is quite basic. They are the only structures around for many kilometers so look quite out of place in the barrens. We are on a small lake (of which there are hundreds up here) enclosed in an electric fence to keep the bears away. Also money well spent in my opinion! There are six 4 man domed outfitter tents with cots and a wood stove in each. The only other buildings are the cookhouse, office, sample shed and outhouse. Everything was built on site with plywood or canvas, but it is not as rustic as you would think. The many satellite dishes poking off the roof of the office supply the camp with radio, telephone and blesssed, blessed internet. It's down right now, but apparently there is a phone running through the satellite system which anyone is free to use, unlimited. I am rather pumped about this as 6 weeks is a long time to go without talking to the outside world. I can't imagine how isolating this job would be even 10 years ago. I certainly would not have been able to bring out the 75 movie files I have on my computer in VHS equivalent. It would fill a whole plane!

Seeing as I got up so early, I think it is time to turn in at the late late hour of 9:30. Tomorrow is when the real work starts.

-A.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The Big One

Tomorrow I am off to a camp run by GGL Diamonds to look for VMS deposits (stands for volcanic massive sulphides, which is an indicator of gold). I will be gone until August 19, but on the bright side, the camp will have internet! From the pictures I have seen, I think I am north of the tree line (the coordinates are 64 degrees latitude and 112 degrees longitude), so along with the flatness of the tundra, things should be a little easier going in terms of hiking, compared to Palmer Lake. You can check out this link for pictures of the camp:
http://www.ggldiamond.ca/index.php?m=imggallery (called Zip Camp)

Six weeks sounds like a long time without a day off, but I think that as long as I do fun things in my down-time I should keep my sanity. I am bringing fishing gear, a stone-carving kit, and many many books. I think that since I am doing something that I really love should also help prevent burn out. Sitting here in Yellowknife certainly won't earn me any money- a single beer at the bar costs $7 and gas runs at 1.51 a litre. I will never complain about the cost of gas in High Prairie ever again!

Assuming I don't go crazy out in the tundra, I think it's going to be pretty fun. Just have to keep an eye out for those pesky bears. I don't think there are any polar bears that far from the north coast but one can never be too sure. Luckily my shotgun leasons will come in handy in that respect. I have to leave at 5am so I better hit the hay. Next stop, the barrens!

-A.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Physical limitations

July 5

This has been the hardest day of work I have ever done in my life.

Still tired from yesterday's excursions, and with a sore left knee, I hopped onto the helicopter at 8 am. It was raining and we were the only crew to go out. Dropped off on a plateau, we were on the opposite side of a little creek valley from where we wanted to be. After scaling down the rather steep hill, covered in stunted spruce and small bushes, we crossed the creek. I managed to completely soak one boot and it was only 8:30 am. Gary pointed up a 40 degree slope and said that we were going to the top. I swear to god I thought he was kidding.

The "slope" was almost vertical at the top and was covered in 10-30cm pieces of sharp shale. This meant that if you didn't get your footing right, you might end up sliding down further than you stepped up. Everyone else was in much better shape than I, having spent the last eight months sitting on my ass either studying or watching tv. I was so frustrated with my progress by the time I got about a third of the way up that I was crying a little. Gary took pity on me and said I could stay where I was. But that would mean spending the rest of the day sitting on a shaley slope in the rain, so I powered on. I made it to the top in about twice the time it took the other two people and I slipped and smashed my face into the rocks at least twice and I very much felt like throwing up near the top, but I made it. Now it was geology time.

We followed a literal goat trail along the side of the slope (we were only half way up the mountain) to look at the jagged outcrop along the north face. I was glad to have some time to get my energy back but sitting in the rain writing sample descriptions is not pleasant. At one point the sun almost came out and I saw a rainbow below. I was high enough that the rainbow was BELOW me! That is crazy!

Finally at 2 pm we were given the go ahead to make our way back to the landing site on the other side of the valley. After making it back to the creek, I realized that the hill back up to the area where the helicopter was to pick us up was actually steeper than the shale slope. And this time I had a pack full of rocks and a grizzly bear skull that I had found earlier. I made it about half the way up and may have thrown up a little. I am simply not in shape- my calves were on fire and I was panting so loud I am sure I scared away any nearby wildlife. When I made it to the top, I lay down in the rain and let the water cool my face. I probably shouldn't have done that as the chopper didn't show up for another 45 minutes and by that time I was soaked to the bone and cold as hell.

You may not believe me but deep down I think I had fun. Now that I am sitting here in camp in my warm sleeping bag, I am glad I did it and feel like I could do it again.
I hiked and climbed in the Mackenzie Mountains in the Northwest Territories, in the rain, an hour and a half by air to the nearest road, where the sky hasn't darkened in weeks. How fricking badass is that?

-A.

Into the mountians

July 4

We finally got out to the field today- we choppered in to this high saddle between two mountains. I thought "okay not too bad". That is when I learned we were still 2 km away from our first sample location. Getting there involved a lot of hiking up a decently sloped hill covered in lichen and alpine flowers- still not to bad. Then we entered the cloud layer so it looked like a foggy day in Halifax, it was absolutely gorgeous; very mystical.

We didn't find much of anything all day, but I did summit a peak (2000 m at the top, though I only had to go about 500 m since the chopper did part of the work). Its true what they say about how going down can be harder than climbing up (sometimes). We had an elevation gain of about 400m from our starting point and then 600m down to the end of the traverse on the other side of the peak and despite my bitching about the hill climb, the down part was much steeper and more difficult to balance. It was quite chilly and damp, and I was very out of breath many times, but all in all I came out of it not to worse for wear. Not too bad for my first full day of work as a graduated, professional geologist.

-A.

A fly in the ointment

July 3

Ooookay, so the day did not turn out exactly as planned. We got in to Palmer Lake yesterday at around six and as it turned out, there was absolutely no extra room for our stuff on the next incoming plane. This meant that I had to spend another day in the pants that I had been wearing since the morning of July 1st. Also, since we had no gear, we would not be able to go out into the field. Gary, the project leader (and owner of the company!) had to stay back until this afternoon because the bags could not travel unattended. Absolutely no work got done today AND I didn't get to drink my birthday wine last night, since I had packed it in my big bag. Alas. Other than the gorgeous mountain scenery, there was not much else to celebrate that I was another year older, though the mountains were nothing to scoff at.

Today was spent mostly sleeping and watching movies, as the bugs were just a little too swarm-like to make the outdoors bearable. Gary showed up with our gear just before supper and I am currently luxuriating in a wonderfully clean pair of socks (among other things). Hopefully tomorrow will involve some actual geology.

Another thing I found out was that there is no internet up here, which is actually very surprising, considering the size of the camp. Usually that is one of the few guarantees of all but the most basic bush camps. You may not have running water, but there is always some kind of contact with the office. I have a feeling that they won't let me use the satellite phone to dictate out my blog postings so I will have to post all of this when I get back on Sunday night.

-A.

On the great Mackenzie River

July 2

As I write this, it is 1pm and I am sitting on the bank of the Mackenzie River, just out of Norman Wells, NT. It is sunny and gorgeous and I have no socks on. Who would have thought that you could get wireless internet here? Crazy.

Last night I went to my boss's Canada Day barbecue and afterward myself, Dan and Caroline decided to go for a canoe to the bar. We parked the canoe in front of the Black Knight Pub and just caught last call. I have more mosquito bites then I ever have had in my entire life. It was totally worth it!

This morning, a little worse for wear, Caroline and I got to the airport half an hour before our flight was scheduled to depart. However, what we didn't know was that boarding was at 9:50. According to the desk, our flight was closed, but after a little sweet talking, they let us on the plane, minus our checked luggage. Luckily Cindy, our expediter was there and was able to take the bags to send later today. I also forgot my hiking boots in my hungover haze, which Cindy will also send later today. I also forgot socks.

This afternoon we take a charter plane to Palmer's Lake, just beside the border with Yukon, at about 64 degrees latitude. Not quite the arctic circle, but still not too shabby for my first excursion. I can't believe I am being paid for this shit!

I would have to say that so far this has been one of my better birthday adventures.

-A.


Footnote: Norman Wells wireless was not quite hefty enough to actually upload anything there.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Departure imminent

Happy Canada Day! I have started a new online journal for those interested in hearing about me wandering the northern wastes in search of earth's treasures.

I leave tomorrow for Norman Wells, NT (look it up on google maps, it's hella north). All in all, not a bad way to spend my birthday. Last year I was on a beach in PEI camping and kayaking. If this streak of awesome birthdays continues I may have to go to the Grand Canyon next year. More details on my destination to come, because for now I am off to a patriotic barbeque. Cheers!

-A.